In search of the best Glacerie in Paris: Folderol
11 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 75010, Paris
When discussing this review with a friend I dragged to Folderol on my 4th ‘Tasting trip’, he said “You should open with the fact that it’s the only ice cream shop in Paris, probably even the world, with a bouncer on the door”. Touché. I’m three reviews in to my search for the best glacerie in Paris and honestly I think we can stop here. If JJ Hings is a playground, this is the Berghain of the ice cream world and it’s so good there’s security.
My first time was actually my second attempt at going. Well no, that’s a lie: technically my first time was last autumn during a “catch up” with my ex boyfriend. Obviously that trip doesn’t count as I can’t tell you a single thing about the ice cream, I don’t even remember what I ordered. But I can tell you it tasted awkward, confused and highly anxious. So on to my second time. I wandered there, as is my custom, on a delightfully vacant evening. As 9pm whipped round I thought “you should really do something with this sunset, it’s going to be dark and cold soon”. Since my trip with the ex I’d heard about Folderol from so many different sources, it had gained a quasi mythical status… “Faut essayer Folderol” “t’es allée a Folderol?” “Fol-de-roooollll c’est (smacks the lips)”.
When I arrived there was a queue, naturally. Whilst I’m waiting I notice, that there are a lot of non French speakers. It’s an ice cream shop so a bit of tourism is expected but this is the 11th, not the Marais so I am surprised by the overwhelming number of non Parisians. I also notice how many people are taking photos outside the door, inside the shop, on the street. This is when a sign catches me eye: NO TIKTOK. Weird, usually places a desperate for advertising. A bit of digging tells me Folderol went viral in 2023, aggressively so. Hence the bouncer. Hence them spending the last two years trying to undo their chaotic level of internet fame. They’ve had enough content made about them to last a life time.
Well, hopefully one more Substack won’t hurt.
A small chalk board is passed down as we wait with the flavours du jour on it. I’m used to queuing for good ice cream. It comes with the territory. The only thing is on this occasion, the queue doesn’t move. Not an inch. I double check, am I in the right queue? Yes. Still no movement. I’m ashamed to say that after 20 minutes I abandoned ship, that evening I didn’t have the patience.
Which brings me to my first visit, technically my third but second with actual ice cream and first conscious. Are you still with me? This time I really needed some gelato. I’d had a shit day and I was feeling sad. I needed something to cheer me up before roaming home to cry.
Thankfully the queue moved quicker and I got in. When you finally make it inside, it’s a high comparable to getting into Oceana on a Friday night at uni. You’ve been queuing for an hour after been told it’s “one in one out”. Your toes are numb in your Kurt Geiger stilettos and you’re shivering in your River Island bodycon dress. You’re just about to suggest going to the chippy and getting the 209 back to campus when the bouncer unclips the cord and swooshes you in: It’s exhilarating.
But unlike Oceana, Folderol is actually very cool. It’s as branché as you would expect for the 11th. A long bar goes around the room peppered with high stools and sexy couples in Margiela eating gelato out of silver coupes. Unlike more traditional ice cream shops this is very much a place where people are encouraged to “dine in”. They have a small plates menu and a large selection of natural wine. This means that it stays alive throughout the winter and is unequivocally the perfect date spot.
You’re are greeted by staff who seem relaxed to the point of nonchalance. As if there wasn’t an angry mob clamouring outside the door. If it were anywhere else it would be insufferable but in Paris it all feels part of the charm. I order their eponymous olive oil ice cream and ask the server if he can recommend a wine pairing. He quietly thinks about it, pulls a couple of bottles off the shelf. He offers me a few things to try even though I’m just buying a glass to take away. As I’m enjoying the full 5 star treatment I look over to the mass of people swarming outside. Here, they will rush for no one- we exist in a high quality vacuum. I go with a light pet nat (pétillant naturel).
This is my kind of ice cream. I like the simplicity and richness of the texture. The olive oil gelato is as dense as a ganache and as intense as a chocolate mousse. It’s so rich it’s difficult to finish one scoop (I’m serious). It doesn’t hit you at first, the flavour takes a while to develop in the mouth and it’s confusing. Olive oil belongs on a salad not with cream and sugar. But you have to persevere, rewire your tastebuds. The homemade waffle cone is the best cone I’ve ever tasted, buttery and rich. I want a tray of these in biscuit form to dunk into my Ricoré.
On my next visit (I’ve lost track) I try the Basil. Again, the first few licks are confusing my brain; “why am I eating a sweet creamy Basil?” “I’m not even mad about Basil in salads, why would I l enjoy it frozen and sugary?” Because it works. It’s layered. It’s sugary but not overly so and it’s fragrant but not pungent. Every bite is so unexpected it makes you want to laugh.
Here is what you are going to do. You are going to go to Folderol and your are going to queue for as long as it takes and then you are going to order the olive oil ice cream and you are going to eat it in a cone. Not a cup. It’s too rich, it needs a cone like olive oil needs bread. If they have basil you are going to buy that too. In fact if you see any flavour that you would usually find in a salad- order that. Don’t buy the sorbet, it’s high quality and made out of real fruit but sadly it pales in insignificance next to the punch of the ice creams. You are going to buy a glass of natural red, something very light and fruity. Then you are going to sit on the dirty Parisian pavement outside for as long as it takes for your brain to understand what it is eating and fall in love with it.
My only note, si je puisse me permettre, is that wine and gelato don’t compliment each. The gelato is not enhanced by the wine and no variation of grape or flavour will change that. I believe this is because it’s too cold. I wish it did because it’s a concept I love- a boule of pistache & glass of Pet Nat is a perfect boho chic take on Champagne ’n’ Caviar. Unfortunately flavour wise: c’est un non.
However, I do have a suggestion (Folderol if you’re listening): the alcohol needs to be warm. Voilà. I want mulled wine with a scoop of cherry and cardamon gelato. I want a warm cider with a ball of peach and cream. A coupe of rum-raisin with a hot punch… Tell me that doesn’t sound dreamy? It would at least give us something to look forward to this winter.