I woke up this morning with egg on my face. In fairness I never said I was a Parisian expert but if you are going to write a blog of Paris recommendations then at least do the due diligence of checking THAT THEY HAVEN’T CLOSED DOWN. I apologise, sincerely, je suis stupid. This next restaurant, to replace the defunct one, is definitely open. I know this because I called them this morning to book a table. I’m compensating for the initial gaffe by gifting you with this pépite. It’s no exaggeration when I tell you it’s my ride or die restaurant in Paris. It’s where I like to take friends when they’ve just landed or myself when I’m at a loose end. It’s situated down a quiet backstreet in the 11th arrondissement. It’s barely noticeable except for the smattering of little tables outside and the gentle hubbub of people smoking in between courses. Aside from the glow of cigarette butts and the occasional burst of laughter, it’s a discreet gem. The dishes are as delicate as the interior. It’s tiny and always packed, I wouldn’t recommend going there to discuss an aggressive episode of thrush as at any given moment, you’re less than a foot away from the next person. The enforced intimacy with your fellow diners could be a reason to hate it but somehow you don’t. It’s like a full scale philharmonic orchestra squeezed into a confined space but, crucially, perfectly conducted. It runs like clockwork: the food is great, the service is even better. It’s quality but unpretentious- the kind of place where you can say to the waiter “un rouge, léger, pas trop cher” (“a red, light bodied, not too expensive”) and he knows exactly what you’re after and you don’t feel like a total twat. Also if you go there for lunch, it’s a three course menu for 27 euros. Just a word warning: I’ll probably be there too.
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The Hardware Société in Montmartre is definitely worth a stop by for brunch.